Kazakhstan

Favorite Countries for Eating, Ranked 1 through 41 (Updated for Bolivia)

Here are the countries that I have visited ranked by their food. I spent a day watching corporate training videos and needed some way of maintaining my sanity and this was it — at least that’s how it started. I have since updated it ans I traveled to more countries. I have excluded the US and microstates such as the Vatican, San Marino, etc. I have also excluded Uruguay and Brasil because I spent so little time there. I should note that I tend to eat pretty local, I probably don’t know where to get the best burger in Bangkok. Update: by food I really mean cuisine. My rankings are based on the local food, not the availablity of chains from other countries. Variety figures very high in my rankings. You can yse whatever criteria you feel appropriate.

  1. Peru: It has a cuisine that I could subsist on long-term. Ceviche, Pollo a la brassa, and parilla. Wonderful street food including these wonderful little donuts made of sweet potato flour called picarones. I went on a ceviche bender that caused a gout flareup. I don’t know what they do to rotisserie chicken but pollo a la brassa is amazing. There are also some wonderful stews like Aji de Gallina.

  2. Vietnam: An outstanding food tour in Ho Chi Mnh City. Whether it’s Pho, Banh Mi or Bun, not all of the best foods in the world come from Vietnam just five or six of them. Note: there is no rice flour in the Banh Mi. The crispy crust is made by misting with water during baking.

  3. Mexico: An amazingly diverse cuisine. All you really need to be happy are street tacos in Mexico City, but there’s so much more. Churros from Churreria El Moro, Sanborn’s for nostalgia, the seven moles of Oaxaca….

  4. Thailand: Great stir fries, great curries. Thailand is a bit of a crossroads with Islamic and Hindu influences as well as Portuguese. They are not afraid of spice, but not all Thai food is spicy.

  5. Morocco: I had the most amazing tajine for my first meal in Marrakesh and many other great meals followed. The biggest issue with food the great desert band that stretches from the Sahara through Arabia into Uzbekistan is that the food is all similar and kind of changes along a continuum. I think couscous is unique to Morocco and I don’t recall seeing any falafel there. So, the biggest knock would be less variety, but still very good.

  6. Colombia: The down side is that the food is generally lightly spiced. The upside is that there are many fruits not found anywhere else and some interesting cross-cultural influences including Sephardic Jews, Africans, indigenous, and t eh Spanish. Many good bakeries, seafood and bunuelos. The country appears to be celebrating its own cuisine now. Reflecting on this post a year later and I just keep coming back to the fruit. It is like none other.

  7. Turkey: Morocco, Turkey and Jordan are basically tied. I think Turkey may have more variety than the other two. There’s a lot of grilled meat on sticks and flat breads. There’s also the world’s best desert — kunefe.

  8. Jordan: Hashem. Everyone will tell you to go to Hashem. Well guess what? Go to Hashem. It lives up to its billing. Jordan also has kunefe and falafel and meat on stick as well as many other lovely foods.

  9. Ethiopia: The food is wonderful and among the most unique on the planet — not even bordering countries share that much with their cuisine. It was the original coffee culture and the only country in the world that grows teff.

  10. Trinidad: Trini has influences from all over the world. Their Indian food is not Indian, their Chinese is not Chinese, their Middle Eastern (note: the British sent the best ME cooks to Mexico), their African is not African. It all comes together to make a unique cuisin.

  11. Greece: Greek food is also similar to that middle eastern continuum, but they have pork and shellfish.

  12. Portugal: Many lovely things to eat here. They have brought many things back from the colonies which has helped their cuisine, I stayed in a suburb of Lisbon and a Mozambique guy cooked at the restaurant across the street from me. We talked over Google Translate. He would ask me general questions about things I liked and come up with something. He made a wonderful Peri Peri sauce. There was also great seafood though most of the fish eaten in Portugal are from places other than Portugal.

  13. Bolivia: Bolivia struggles with it’s culinary identity. It was once part of Peru and has Peruvian influences ex-seafood in the west and Argentian and Brazilian influences in the east. The south’s main source or meat are llama and chicken.

  14. Grenada: Grenada is the spice island and uses spices in unexpected way. I particularly liked a bun that was spiced with nutmeg, some grilled chicken that was perfectly charred, and the chocolate is as good as it gets.

  15. Argentina: Argentina does many things well and some things hardly at all. There are three essential ingredients to Argentinian cuisine: meat, cheese, and bread. The bakeries are nonperiel. The pizza is excellent. I was a little diappointed in the parrilla as they tend to overcook (order: jugoso). There’s just not enough use of fruits and vegetables, or fish to push it higher.

  16. Spain: Tapas and paella, what else do you need. Jamon Iberico, I suppose.

  17. France: It’s been a while since I was there and that was mostly Paris.

  18. Barbados: This could be higher had I known that Saturday was pickle day and also chicken feet day. I wasted it on a food tour. There are some good things here, but they really don’t know what spice is.

  19. Israel: This is also part of that Middle East continuum.

  20. Italy: Naples had great food, Milan not so much and everywhere else was in between. Italy is really a bunch of little places, each having its own cuisine. It’s more German to the north and better to the south. Naples was once one of the two Sicilies and controlled by Spain.It’s where good pizza comes from.

  21. Poland: We had some excellent meals in Krakow. Perogies, jelly donuts, the ancestor of the bagel and much more.

  22. Czechia: The food is pretty heavy and surprisingly similar to French in some instances. The Garlic soup is a favorite.

  23. UK: I moved the UK up on the strength of Scotland’s haggis. Overall, the food is bland and has a lot of meat pies and scones and tea with milk. The best food here is Indian and good cood from the former empire is everywhere. Only American tourists eat British food these days.

  24. Ireland: This food is very familiar to me, though I had no corned beef while there. The food was generally good but unremarkable to my palate.

  25. Germany: I unwittingly showed up at the beginning of Spargel season once. The Germans sure do lover their asparagus.

  26. Slovakia: I only spent one night there, but had a cherry-poppy seed strudel that was so good I had a second.

  27. Ecuador: We ate at several high end restaurants that were in Quito. We also had nachos at the highest German brew in the world. We should seen that coming. Oh, and chicken ceviche.

  28. Panama: This is a tough one. We spent four days there and most of that time was spent in the San Francisco area of Panama City, so we had little authentic Panamanian food. We did have some excellent seafood at Mercado del Marisco and Panamanian food at Diablicios. Probably not a great sampling.

  29. Belgium: Mostly I remember drinking there, but the food must have been good too.

  30. Austria: Very short trip to Austria.

  31. Hungary: I got a little tired of the Hungarian fare, but Budapest has the largest Chinatown in Europe and I had a wonderful conversation with the widow of a former diplomat who spent a lot of time in China and Virginia.

  32. Azerbaijan: It’s also part of the continuum. They have a flat bread they call Naan, plov and a lot of meat on sticks.

  33. Georgia: There are some excellent dishes here and their wine alone maybe should place them higher. I have to say that the dish they are most famous for Khachapuri is not very good. It’s basically cheese bread — and not very good cheese bread. If you want good cheese bread, go to Naples. They call it Margherita and you can get it anywhere. The Ojakhuri is excellent and the wine is outstanding.

  34. Cyprus: Similar to Greek.

  35. Uzbekistan: At the far end of the continuum.

  36. Kazakhstan: The transition from Arabic to Chinese occurs here.

  37. Netherlands: They overuse sprinkles on bread.

  38. Canada: Tim Hortons and poutine are their greatest culinary contributions. Canada may also suffer from being close to the US and I overlook it. It also is a place with a lot of international options that don’t really count as “Canadian”.

  39. Nigeria: There are really two things that I don’t like about Nigerian food, (1) texture and (2) smoked fish. Not every country cuts its meat the same. In much of the world, tough, gristley meat is prized and it is butchered for that. They also put fish bones in their soup which I can’t get past. The smoked fish is a strong flavor that is difficult for me to like. Other than that, the flavors and the spice level are pleasant. I could see Nigerian food get popular, but it needs to go through a westernizing process first.

  40. Ghana: I feel that I should give it another shot. It wasn’t much to my tastes, but this was our first trip to the developing world, so maybe it was me.

  41. South Africa: We had Italian, Mexican, Portuguese, burgers, Ghanaian, Ethiopian, Cameroonian. There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of South African and that’s too bad. So, there is good food. just not South African.

As I said, I try to eat as local as possible. And this list is obviously subjective. Some of these places, I was only in a short time and others for longer periods and that may have affected my opinion as well.

Favorite Countries for Eating, Ranked 1 through 39 (Updated for Grenada and Barbados) (Copy)

Here are the countries that I have visited ranked by their food. I spent a day watching corporate training videos and needed some way of maintaining my sanity and this was it — at least that’s how it started. I have since updated it ans I traveled to more countries. I have excluded the US and microstates such as the Vatican, San Marino, etc. I have also excluded Uruguay and Brasil because I spent so little time there. I should note that I tend to eat pretty local, I probably don’t know where to get the best burger in Bangkok. Update: by food I really mean cuisine. My rankings are based on the local food, not the availablity of chains from other countries. Variety figures very high in my rankings. You can yse whatever criteria you feel appropriate.

  1. Peru: It has a cuisine that I could subsist on long-term. Ceviche, Pollo a la brassa, and parilla. Wonderful street food including these wonderful little donuts made of sweet potato flour called picarones. I went on a ceviche bender that caused a gout flareup. I don’t know what they do to rotisserie chicken but pollo a la brassa is amazing. There are also some wonderful stews like Aji de Gallina.

  2. Vietnam: An outstanding food tour in Ho Chi Mnh City. Whether it’s Pho, Banh Mi or Bun, not all of the best foods in the world come from Vietnam just five or six of them. Note: there is no rice flour in the Banh Mi. The crispy crust is made by misting with water during baking.

  3. Mexico: An amazingly diverse cuisine. All you really need to be happy are street tacos in Mexico City, but there’s so much more. Churros from Churreria El Moro, Sanborn’s for nostalgia, the seven moles of Oaxaca….

  4. Thailand: Great stir fries, great curries. Thailand is a bit of a crossroads with Islamic and Hindu influences as well as Portuguese. They are not afraid of spice, but not all Thai food is spicy.

  5. Morocco: I had the most amazing tajine for my first meal in Marrakesh and many other great meals followed. The biggest issue with food the great desert band that stretches from the Sahara through Arabia into Uzbekistan is that the food is all similar and kind of changes along a continuum. I think couscous is unique to Morocco and I don’t recall seeing any falafel there. So, the biggest knock would be less variety, but still very good.

  6. Colombia: The down side is that the food is generally lightly spiced. The upside is that there are many fruits not found anywhere else and some interesting cross-cultural influences including Sephardic Jews, Africans, indigenous, and t eh Spanish. Many good bakeries, seafood and bunuelos. The country appears to be celebrating its own cuisine now. Reflecting on this post a year later and I just keep coming back to the fruit. It is like none other.

  7. Turkey: Morocco, Turkey and Jordan are basically tied. I think Turkey may have more variety than the other two. There’s a lot of grilled meat on sticks and flat breads. There’s also the world’s best desert — kunefe.

  8. Jordan: Hashem. Everyone will tell you to go to Hashem. Well guess what? Go to Hashem. It lives up to its billing. Jordan also has kunefe and falafel and meat on stick as well as many other lovely foods.

  9. Ethiopia: The food is wonderful and among the most unique on the planet — not even bordering countries share that much with their cuisine. It was the original coffee culture and the only country in the world that grows teff.

  10. Greece: Greek food is also similar to that middle eastern continuum, but they have pork and shellfish.

  11. Portugal: Many lovely things to eat here. They have brought many things back from the colonies which has helped their cuisine, I stayed in a suburb of Lisbon and a Mozambique guy cooked at the restaurant across the street from me. We talked over Google Translate. He would ask me general questions about things I liked and come up with something. He made a wonderful Peri Peri sauce. There was also great seafood though most of the fish eaten in Portugal are from places other than Portugal.

  12. Grenada: Grenada is the spice island and uses spices in unexpected way. I particularly liked a bun that was spiced with nutmeg, some grilled chicken that was perfectly charred, and the chocolate is as good as it gets.

  13. Argentina: Argentina does many things well and some things hardly at all. There are three essential ingredients to Argentinian cuisine: meat, cheese, and bread. The bakeries are nonperiel. The pizza is excellent. I was a little diappointed in the parrilla as they tend to overcook (order: jugoso). There’s just not enough use of fruits and vegetables, or fish to push it higher.

  14. Spain: Tapas and paella, what else do you need. Jamon Iberico, I suppose.

  15. France: It’s been a while since I was there and that was mostly Paris.

  16. Barbados: This could be higher had I known that Saturday was pickle day and also chicken feet day. I wasted it on a food tour. There are some good things here, but they really don’t know what spice is.

  17. Israel: This is also part of that Middle East continuum.

  18. Italy: Naples had great food, Milan not so much and everywhere else was in between. Italy is really a bunch of little places, each having its own cuisine. It’s more German to the north and better to the south. Naples was once one of the two Sicilies and controlled by Spain.It’s where good pizza comes from.

  19. Poland: We had some excellent meals in Krakow. Perogies, jelly donuts, the ancestor of the bagel and much more.

  20. Czechia: The food is pretty heavy and surprisingly similar to French in some instances. The Garlic soup is a favorite.

  21. UK: I moved the UK up on the strength of Scotland’s haggis. Overall, the food is bland and has a lot of meat pies and scones and tea with milk. The best food here is Indian and good cood from the former empire is everywhere. Only American tourists eat British food these days.

  22. Ireland: This food is very familiar to me, though I had no corned beef while there. The food was generally good but unremarkable to my palate.

  23. Germany: I unwittingly showed up at the beginning of Spargel season once. The Germans sure do lover their asparagus.

  24. Slovakia: I only spent one night there, but had a cherry-poppy seed strudel that was so good I had a second.

  25. Ecuador: We ate at several high end restaurants that were in Quito. We also had nachos at the highest German brew in the world. We should seen that coming. Oh, and chicken ceviche.

  26. Panama: This is a tough one. We spent four days there and most of that time was spent in the San Francisco area of Panama City, so we had little authentic Panamanian food. We did have some excellent seafood at Mercado del Marisco and Panamanian food at Diablicios. Probably not a great sampling.

  27. Belgium: Mostly I remember drinking there, but the food must have been good too.

  28. Austria: Very short trip to Austria.

  29. Hungary: I got a little tired of the Hungarian fare, but Budapest has the largest Chinatown in Europe and I had a wonderful conversation with the widow of a former diplomat who spent a lot of time in China and Virginia.

  30. Azerbaijan: It’s also part of the continuum. They have a flat bread they call Naan, plov and a lot of meat on sticks.

  31. Georgia: There are some excellent dishes here and their wine alone maybe should place them higher. I have to say that the dish they are most famous for Khachapuri is not very good. It’s basically cheese bread — and not very good cheese bread. If you want good cheese bread, go to Naples. They call it Margherita and you can get it anywhere. The Ojakhuri is excellent and the wine is outstanding.

  32. Cyprus: Similar to Greek.

  33. Uzbekistan: At the far end of the continuum.

  34. Kazakhstan: The transition from Arabic to Chinese occurs here.

  35. Netherlands: They overuse sprinkles on bread.

  36. Canada: Tim Hortons and poutine are their greatest culinary contributions. Canada may also suffer from being close to the US and I overlook it. It also is a place with a lot of international options that don’t really count as “Canadian”.

  37. Nigeria: There are really two things that I don’t like about Nigerian food, (1) texture and (2) smoked fish. Not every country cuts its meat the same. In much of the world, tough, gristley meat is prized and it is butchered for that. They also put fish bones in their soup which I can’t get past. The smoked fish is a strong flavor that is difficult for me to like. Other than that, the flavors and the spice level are pleasant. I could see Nigerian food get popular, but it needs to go through a westernizing process first.

  38. Ghana: I feel that I should give it another shot. It wasn’t much to my tastes, but this was our first trip to the developing world, so maybe it was me.

  39. South Africa: We had Italian, Mexican, Portuguese, burgers, Ghanaian, Ethiopian, Cameroonian. There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of South African and that’s too bad. So, there is good food. just not South African.

As I said, I try to eat as local as possible. And this list is obviously subjective. Some of these places, I was only in a short time and others for longer periods and that may have affected my opinion as well.

Aktau Baby

Why go to Aktau? To catch a plane. Aktau is on the far west of Kazakhstan. It is only about 40 years old and was founded to house Uranium miners, so maybe it’s contaminated. It has a decent sized airport. I toured Uzbekistan from east to west, it seems that most people west to east. Either way, you start in Tashkent, which is east. To come and go from Tashkent (which most people do) requires a long train ride from either Nukus or Urgench to or from Tashkent. Instead, I opted for going back into Kazakhstan and flying from Aktau. To sum it up, I saved some money but wasted some time (Uzbekistan is expensive to fly to/from).

So, what is there to do in Aktau? Really, not much. I read a blog post by some people who spent three days in Aktau whining about how awful it was. I won’t link to it here, as it was poorly written and meanly critical. The most interesting part of Aktau was getting to Aktau. There are herds of wild camels and horses grazing along the highway. Once in Aktau, there is a World War II memorial that I thought was nice, a MIG fighter jet statue and what appears to be a beginning of a tourism industry on the Caspian coast. This means there are some hotels, restaurants that serve world cuisine and bars where I picture young Kazakhs dressed from Saturday Night Fever hanging out listening to techno music.

I took a 30 minute tour boat for about $3. There was no tour guide to tell us what we were seeing (which was nothing), walked along the shore (which is rocky not sandy) and killed two days. I’s not a terrible place, just boring fortwo days. I would minimize the time spent there.

Crossing Over -- Kazakhstan to Uzbekistan

As you move south through Kazakhstan in to Uzbekistan, things change dramatically. The terrain, the climate, the language, the chaos. The people also seem to be friendlier (not that those in Astana and Almaty were not — they may be a little more used to foreigners and don’t appreciate the novelty). I arrived in Shymkent late and went straight to City Hostel. It was new and beautiful. At night, Shymkent looked liked a modern city, similar to Almaty.

Aside from the friendly people constantly welcoming me to their country, I found Shymkent and (later) Uzbekistan to be hard. I caught a mild stomach bug while in Shymkent and felt on the verge of throwing up most of the way to Tashkent. Then, my taxi dropped me off down the street from where I needed to be, so I had to lug a heavy pack up the street and up six flights of stairs in 90 degree heat. I spent the first afternoon napping and ate very little for the next few days, which was heartbreaking at Chorsu Bazaar.

In Shymkent, I checked in and asked for advice on how to get to Tashkent. The woman at the desk gave me good instructions on how to get to the bus station to catch the bus that goes into Tashkent.

By day, Shymkent is nothing like Almaty. It is dusty, loud and chaotic. I tried to follow the instructions to get to the right bus station to buy a ticket to Tashkent. I got off either too soon or too late and decided to catch a Yandex cab. Finding the right bus station proved to be a problem. I chose the wrong one. The one I went to didn’t have a bus, but had marshrutkas (minibus operating when full). Rather than try to get to the other bus station, I took a marshrutka. The marshrutkas do not cross the border. You have to cross on foot and then catch a second ride on the Uzbek side into Tashkent. In all, it cost $2 to get to the border and $3 to get from the border into Tashkent and I got there sooner.

Surprisingly, at the border the Kazakh guards were mildly dickish, making me count my money and having the dog sniff my things. The Uzbek guards were nice and each one (you will talk to several) welcomed me to their country.

Once across the border, I was set upon by money changers and taxi drivers. I changed money at the rate of 9000 som/$, google had the rate at 8000, so I felt like I stole from him. Later, I found a place in Samarkand that had 9400, so I guess you can’t even trust google here.

I was then set upon by cab drivers offering to take me into town for between 30000 and 80000 som. I went with the guy at 30000. We walked to his cab and he opened his trunk so I could put my bag in. The trunk was full of stuff, including an old tube-type TV. I said I’d just put it in the backseat. He said no and insisted in putting it in his trunk and tying it shut. Then he insisted that I sit in the front. Where upon three more guys hop in the back (presumably one of them was the owner of the TV) and we headed into Tashkent. We talked in what little common language we had. He asked about Trump and I signaled thumbs down. He seemed surprised, but I guess negative opinions about the government aren’t expressed here. It’s a freedom we have for now.

First Post of the Trip 8/21/19

To summarize the first three days (two days travel and one day in Astana (Nursultan)), I have done a lot of walking. A three hour delay in Kansas City and a tenish hour layover in New York, let me log 5.6 miles. The second day included a forced march through the world’s largest airport (Istanbul) — 6.6 miles. And today — my one full day in Astana, let’s do it all — boom, boom, bang it out! 13.5 miles and I still need to run out and get dinner.

Astana is about what I expected. I only devoted about one and a half days to it. As a city, it did exist prior to it being named the capital about 20 years ago. It had a different name (can’t remember) and about 275,000. When it was decided that it would be Kazakhstan’s new capital, a ton of money was spent, and is stilling being spent on infrastructure and buildings —everything from government buildings to arenas to a circus to the largest mosque in central Asia. Driving in from the airport, it was fairly indistinguishable from Overland Park, Kansas with convenience stores and a Hampton Inn.

The national mall was arranged with the Presidential palace at one end and Khan Shatyr (a shopping mall in the world’s largest tent) at the other. The mall is enclosed by buildings on either side. This strikes me as a throwback to Soviet planning as I have seen it in other Soviet cities.

Before I came, I had heard that in the past few years Astana had gone from nothing to do to being a town with great food. And great food should be interpreted as a wide selection of ethnic — everything but Kazakh. One of the main things that I travel for is food, so when I broke down and went to a gastropub for lunch, I was disappointed when the ‘Beef prepared in the Mongolian Style’ was strikingly similar to generic Mongolian Beef in any Chinese restaurant in the US. One restaurant does not indict an entire city — and when you get further away from the ‘new center’, the city does become more Kazakh.

Having said that, I would like to come back to Astana in about ten years and see how it’s changed. In every direction is a construction crane. New concrete and steel structures are going up constantly. Trees are growing and filling in. On the way back to the airport, corporate campuses were springing up at every intersection. Astana is also building light rail. It remains to be seen whether Astana is the city of the future or just another indulgence of unchecked power.