Uzbekistan

Favorite Countries for Eating, Ranked 1 through 41 (Updated for Bolivia)

Here are the countries that I have visited ranked by their food. I spent a day watching corporate training videos and needed some way of maintaining my sanity and this was it — at least that’s how it started. I have since updated it ans I traveled to more countries. I have excluded the US and microstates such as the Vatican, San Marino, etc. I have also excluded Uruguay and Brasil because I spent so little time there. I should note that I tend to eat pretty local, I probably don’t know where to get the best burger in Bangkok. Update: by food I really mean cuisine. My rankings are based on the local food, not the availablity of chains from other countries. Variety figures very high in my rankings. You can yse whatever criteria you feel appropriate.

  1. Peru: It has a cuisine that I could subsist on long-term. Ceviche, Pollo a la brassa, and parilla. Wonderful street food including these wonderful little donuts made of sweet potato flour called picarones. I went on a ceviche bender that caused a gout flareup. I don’t know what they do to rotisserie chicken but pollo a la brassa is amazing. There are also some wonderful stews like Aji de Gallina.

  2. Vietnam: An outstanding food tour in Ho Chi Mnh City. Whether it’s Pho, Banh Mi or Bun, not all of the best foods in the world come from Vietnam just five or six of them. Note: there is no rice flour in the Banh Mi. The crispy crust is made by misting with water during baking.

  3. Mexico: An amazingly diverse cuisine. All you really need to be happy are street tacos in Mexico City, but there’s so much more. Churros from Churreria El Moro, Sanborn’s for nostalgia, the seven moles of Oaxaca….

  4. Thailand: Great stir fries, great curries. Thailand is a bit of a crossroads with Islamic and Hindu influences as well as Portuguese. They are not afraid of spice, but not all Thai food is spicy.

  5. Morocco: I had the most amazing tajine for my first meal in Marrakesh and many other great meals followed. The biggest issue with food the great desert band that stretches from the Sahara through Arabia into Uzbekistan is that the food is all similar and kind of changes along a continuum. I think couscous is unique to Morocco and I don’t recall seeing any falafel there. So, the biggest knock would be less variety, but still very good.

  6. Colombia: The down side is that the food is generally lightly spiced. The upside is that there are many fruits not found anywhere else and some interesting cross-cultural influences including Sephardic Jews, Africans, indigenous, and t eh Spanish. Many good bakeries, seafood and bunuelos. The country appears to be celebrating its own cuisine now. Reflecting on this post a year later and I just keep coming back to the fruit. It is like none other.

  7. Turkey: Morocco, Turkey and Jordan are basically tied. I think Turkey may have more variety than the other two. There’s a lot of grilled meat on sticks and flat breads. There’s also the world’s best desert — kunefe.

  8. Jordan: Hashem. Everyone will tell you to go to Hashem. Well guess what? Go to Hashem. It lives up to its billing. Jordan also has kunefe and falafel and meat on stick as well as many other lovely foods.

  9. Ethiopia: The food is wonderful and among the most unique on the planet — not even bordering countries share that much with their cuisine. It was the original coffee culture and the only country in the world that grows teff.

  10. Trinidad: Trini has influences from all over the world. Their Indian food is not Indian, their Chinese is not Chinese, their Middle Eastern (note: the British sent the best ME cooks to Mexico), their African is not African. It all comes together to make a unique cuisin.

  11. Greece: Greek food is also similar to that middle eastern continuum, but they have pork and shellfish.

  12. Portugal: Many lovely things to eat here. They have brought many things back from the colonies which has helped their cuisine, I stayed in a suburb of Lisbon and a Mozambique guy cooked at the restaurant across the street from me. We talked over Google Translate. He would ask me general questions about things I liked and come up with something. He made a wonderful Peri Peri sauce. There was also great seafood though most of the fish eaten in Portugal are from places other than Portugal.

  13. Bolivia: Bolivia struggles with it’s culinary identity. It was once part of Peru and has Peruvian influences ex-seafood in the west and Argentian and Brazilian influences in the east. The south’s main source or meat are llama and chicken.

  14. Grenada: Grenada is the spice island and uses spices in unexpected way. I particularly liked a bun that was spiced with nutmeg, some grilled chicken that was perfectly charred, and the chocolate is as good as it gets.

  15. Argentina: Argentina does many things well and some things hardly at all. There are three essential ingredients to Argentinian cuisine: meat, cheese, and bread. The bakeries are nonperiel. The pizza is excellent. I was a little diappointed in the parrilla as they tend to overcook (order: jugoso). There’s just not enough use of fruits and vegetables, or fish to push it higher.

  16. Spain: Tapas and paella, what else do you need. Jamon Iberico, I suppose.

  17. France: It’s been a while since I was there and that was mostly Paris.

  18. Barbados: This could be higher had I known that Saturday was pickle day and also chicken feet day. I wasted it on a food tour. There are some good things here, but they really don’t know what spice is.

  19. Israel: This is also part of that Middle East continuum.

  20. Italy: Naples had great food, Milan not so much and everywhere else was in between. Italy is really a bunch of little places, each having its own cuisine. It’s more German to the north and better to the south. Naples was once one of the two Sicilies and controlled by Spain.It’s where good pizza comes from.

  21. Poland: We had some excellent meals in Krakow. Perogies, jelly donuts, the ancestor of the bagel and much more.

  22. Czechia: The food is pretty heavy and surprisingly similar to French in some instances. The Garlic soup is a favorite.

  23. UK: I moved the UK up on the strength of Scotland’s haggis. Overall, the food is bland and has a lot of meat pies and scones and tea with milk. The best food here is Indian and good cood from the former empire is everywhere. Only American tourists eat British food these days.

  24. Ireland: This food is very familiar to me, though I had no corned beef while there. The food was generally good but unremarkable to my palate.

  25. Germany: I unwittingly showed up at the beginning of Spargel season once. The Germans sure do lover their asparagus.

  26. Slovakia: I only spent one night there, but had a cherry-poppy seed strudel that was so good I had a second.

  27. Ecuador: We ate at several high end restaurants that were in Quito. We also had nachos at the highest German brew in the world. We should seen that coming. Oh, and chicken ceviche.

  28. Panama: This is a tough one. We spent four days there and most of that time was spent in the San Francisco area of Panama City, so we had little authentic Panamanian food. We did have some excellent seafood at Mercado del Marisco and Panamanian food at Diablicios. Probably not a great sampling.

  29. Belgium: Mostly I remember drinking there, but the food must have been good too.

  30. Austria: Very short trip to Austria.

  31. Hungary: I got a little tired of the Hungarian fare, but Budapest has the largest Chinatown in Europe and I had a wonderful conversation with the widow of a former diplomat who spent a lot of time in China and Virginia.

  32. Azerbaijan: It’s also part of the continuum. They have a flat bread they call Naan, plov and a lot of meat on sticks.

  33. Georgia: There are some excellent dishes here and their wine alone maybe should place them higher. I have to say that the dish they are most famous for Khachapuri is not very good. It’s basically cheese bread — and not very good cheese bread. If you want good cheese bread, go to Naples. They call it Margherita and you can get it anywhere. The Ojakhuri is excellent and the wine is outstanding.

  34. Cyprus: Similar to Greek.

  35. Uzbekistan: At the far end of the continuum.

  36. Kazakhstan: The transition from Arabic to Chinese occurs here.

  37. Netherlands: They overuse sprinkles on bread.

  38. Canada: Tim Hortons and poutine are their greatest culinary contributions. Canada may also suffer from being close to the US and I overlook it. It also is a place with a lot of international options that don’t really count as “Canadian”.

  39. Nigeria: There are really two things that I don’t like about Nigerian food, (1) texture and (2) smoked fish. Not every country cuts its meat the same. In much of the world, tough, gristley meat is prized and it is butchered for that. They also put fish bones in their soup which I can’t get past. The smoked fish is a strong flavor that is difficult for me to like. Other than that, the flavors and the spice level are pleasant. I could see Nigerian food get popular, but it needs to go through a westernizing process first.

  40. Ghana: I feel that I should give it another shot. It wasn’t much to my tastes, but this was our first trip to the developing world, so maybe it was me.

  41. South Africa: We had Italian, Mexican, Portuguese, burgers, Ghanaian, Ethiopian, Cameroonian. There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of South African and that’s too bad. So, there is good food. just not South African.

As I said, I try to eat as local as possible. And this list is obviously subjective. Some of these places, I was only in a short time and others for longer periods and that may have affected my opinion as well.

Favorite Countries for Eating, Ranked 1 through 39 (Updated for Grenada and Barbados) (Copy)

Here are the countries that I have visited ranked by their food. I spent a day watching corporate training videos and needed some way of maintaining my sanity and this was it — at least that’s how it started. I have since updated it ans I traveled to more countries. I have excluded the US and microstates such as the Vatican, San Marino, etc. I have also excluded Uruguay and Brasil because I spent so little time there. I should note that I tend to eat pretty local, I probably don’t know where to get the best burger in Bangkok. Update: by food I really mean cuisine. My rankings are based on the local food, not the availablity of chains from other countries. Variety figures very high in my rankings. You can yse whatever criteria you feel appropriate.

  1. Peru: It has a cuisine that I could subsist on long-term. Ceviche, Pollo a la brassa, and parilla. Wonderful street food including these wonderful little donuts made of sweet potato flour called picarones. I went on a ceviche bender that caused a gout flareup. I don’t know what they do to rotisserie chicken but pollo a la brassa is amazing. There are also some wonderful stews like Aji de Gallina.

  2. Vietnam: An outstanding food tour in Ho Chi Mnh City. Whether it’s Pho, Banh Mi or Bun, not all of the best foods in the world come from Vietnam just five or six of them. Note: there is no rice flour in the Banh Mi. The crispy crust is made by misting with water during baking.

  3. Mexico: An amazingly diverse cuisine. All you really need to be happy are street tacos in Mexico City, but there’s so much more. Churros from Churreria El Moro, Sanborn’s for nostalgia, the seven moles of Oaxaca….

  4. Thailand: Great stir fries, great curries. Thailand is a bit of a crossroads with Islamic and Hindu influences as well as Portuguese. They are not afraid of spice, but not all Thai food is spicy.

  5. Morocco: I had the most amazing tajine for my first meal in Marrakesh and many other great meals followed. The biggest issue with food the great desert band that stretches from the Sahara through Arabia into Uzbekistan is that the food is all similar and kind of changes along a continuum. I think couscous is unique to Morocco and I don’t recall seeing any falafel there. So, the biggest knock would be less variety, but still very good.

  6. Colombia: The down side is that the food is generally lightly spiced. The upside is that there are many fruits not found anywhere else and some interesting cross-cultural influences including Sephardic Jews, Africans, indigenous, and t eh Spanish. Many good bakeries, seafood and bunuelos. The country appears to be celebrating its own cuisine now. Reflecting on this post a year later and I just keep coming back to the fruit. It is like none other.

  7. Turkey: Morocco, Turkey and Jordan are basically tied. I think Turkey may have more variety than the other two. There’s a lot of grilled meat on sticks and flat breads. There’s also the world’s best desert — kunefe.

  8. Jordan: Hashem. Everyone will tell you to go to Hashem. Well guess what? Go to Hashem. It lives up to its billing. Jordan also has kunefe and falafel and meat on stick as well as many other lovely foods.

  9. Ethiopia: The food is wonderful and among the most unique on the planet — not even bordering countries share that much with their cuisine. It was the original coffee culture and the only country in the world that grows teff.

  10. Greece: Greek food is also similar to that middle eastern continuum, but they have pork and shellfish.

  11. Portugal: Many lovely things to eat here. They have brought many things back from the colonies which has helped their cuisine, I stayed in a suburb of Lisbon and a Mozambique guy cooked at the restaurant across the street from me. We talked over Google Translate. He would ask me general questions about things I liked and come up with something. He made a wonderful Peri Peri sauce. There was also great seafood though most of the fish eaten in Portugal are from places other than Portugal.

  12. Grenada: Grenada is the spice island and uses spices in unexpected way. I particularly liked a bun that was spiced with nutmeg, some grilled chicken that was perfectly charred, and the chocolate is as good as it gets.

  13. Argentina: Argentina does many things well and some things hardly at all. There are three essential ingredients to Argentinian cuisine: meat, cheese, and bread. The bakeries are nonperiel. The pizza is excellent. I was a little diappointed in the parrilla as they tend to overcook (order: jugoso). There’s just not enough use of fruits and vegetables, or fish to push it higher.

  14. Spain: Tapas and paella, what else do you need. Jamon Iberico, I suppose.

  15. France: It’s been a while since I was there and that was mostly Paris.

  16. Barbados: This could be higher had I known that Saturday was pickle day and also chicken feet day. I wasted it on a food tour. There are some good things here, but they really don’t know what spice is.

  17. Israel: This is also part of that Middle East continuum.

  18. Italy: Naples had great food, Milan not so much and everywhere else was in between. Italy is really a bunch of little places, each having its own cuisine. It’s more German to the north and better to the south. Naples was once one of the two Sicilies and controlled by Spain.It’s where good pizza comes from.

  19. Poland: We had some excellent meals in Krakow. Perogies, jelly donuts, the ancestor of the bagel and much more.

  20. Czechia: The food is pretty heavy and surprisingly similar to French in some instances. The Garlic soup is a favorite.

  21. UK: I moved the UK up on the strength of Scotland’s haggis. Overall, the food is bland and has a lot of meat pies and scones and tea with milk. The best food here is Indian and good cood from the former empire is everywhere. Only American tourists eat British food these days.

  22. Ireland: This food is very familiar to me, though I had no corned beef while there. The food was generally good but unremarkable to my palate.

  23. Germany: I unwittingly showed up at the beginning of Spargel season once. The Germans sure do lover their asparagus.

  24. Slovakia: I only spent one night there, but had a cherry-poppy seed strudel that was so good I had a second.

  25. Ecuador: We ate at several high end restaurants that were in Quito. We also had nachos at the highest German brew in the world. We should seen that coming. Oh, and chicken ceviche.

  26. Panama: This is a tough one. We spent four days there and most of that time was spent in the San Francisco area of Panama City, so we had little authentic Panamanian food. We did have some excellent seafood at Mercado del Marisco and Panamanian food at Diablicios. Probably not a great sampling.

  27. Belgium: Mostly I remember drinking there, but the food must have been good too.

  28. Austria: Very short trip to Austria.

  29. Hungary: I got a little tired of the Hungarian fare, but Budapest has the largest Chinatown in Europe and I had a wonderful conversation with the widow of a former diplomat who spent a lot of time in China and Virginia.

  30. Azerbaijan: It’s also part of the continuum. They have a flat bread they call Naan, plov and a lot of meat on sticks.

  31. Georgia: There are some excellent dishes here and their wine alone maybe should place them higher. I have to say that the dish they are most famous for Khachapuri is not very good. It’s basically cheese bread — and not very good cheese bread. If you want good cheese bread, go to Naples. They call it Margherita and you can get it anywhere. The Ojakhuri is excellent and the wine is outstanding.

  32. Cyprus: Similar to Greek.

  33. Uzbekistan: At the far end of the continuum.

  34. Kazakhstan: The transition from Arabic to Chinese occurs here.

  35. Netherlands: They overuse sprinkles on bread.

  36. Canada: Tim Hortons and poutine are their greatest culinary contributions. Canada may also suffer from being close to the US and I overlook it. It also is a place with a lot of international options that don’t really count as “Canadian”.

  37. Nigeria: There are really two things that I don’t like about Nigerian food, (1) texture and (2) smoked fish. Not every country cuts its meat the same. In much of the world, tough, gristley meat is prized and it is butchered for that. They also put fish bones in their soup which I can’t get past. The smoked fish is a strong flavor that is difficult for me to like. Other than that, the flavors and the spice level are pleasant. I could see Nigerian food get popular, but it needs to go through a westernizing process first.

  38. Ghana: I feel that I should give it another shot. It wasn’t much to my tastes, but this was our first trip to the developing world, so maybe it was me.

  39. South Africa: We had Italian, Mexican, Portuguese, burgers, Ghanaian, Ethiopian, Cameroonian. There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of South African and that’s too bad. So, there is good food. just not South African.

As I said, I try to eat as local as possible. And this list is obviously subjective. Some of these places, I was only in a short time and others for longer periods and that may have affected my opinion as well.

The Omnibus Uzbekistan Post

This is the second time that I am writing this post. The first one was lost in the ether of the ‘stans. Internet connections tend to be slow and unstable here (Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan). I would recommend downloading WhatsApp before leave. You will likely end up buying a sim card, possibly two and having WhatsApp makes calling home easier. I bought a Beeline card in Astana, Kazakhstan for abou $8, then added roaming for Uzbekistan which cost about another $8.

First, most of what I had read about Uzbekistan in preparing for this trip was wrong to one degree to another. About two years ago, Uzbekistan began liberalizing their tourism policies, dropping the Visa fee from $160 to $20 ($60 for multi-entry), put in place an e-Visa and made other reforms. When I entered the country, I was not asked to provide a list of medications and all customs workers were very nice and welcomed me to their country.

I found the Uzbek people to be unfailingly friendly. Several Uzbeks have pictures of me as souvenirs. Many know some English, even if it’s just ‘Hello’. The only time you will find Uzbeks to be anything other than friendly is when standing in line. Uzbeks don’t stand in line, they don’t allow for personal space, the form a crowd around the person at the front and lay siege to become the next one served. By the time I bought my fourth train ticket, I learned to play the game Uzbek-style. First, allow no space between you and the person is front of you — even (especially, Uzbeks don’t bother with cutting in line a few places back) if that person is the one at the counter transacting business. Stay on them. You need to be close enough to dry hump their leg. Second, guard your flanks. Uzbeks will come at you from either side. A favorite trick is to use the ledge at the counter to get their money and documents ready and then slide in. And finally, be ready as whenever the person at the window is done, you have to move. Get right in as close as you can and start talking. Act like you belong there — any display of weakness and you can take a step back.

The official language is Uzbek but Russian is also prevalent. Signage is often in Uzbek, Russian and/or English. Sometimes figuring out the language that something is written in is half the battle. The further you get from Tashkent, the less Russian is spoken. It seems like more and more English is entering the lexicon. Before I left, I spent six months and more than 200 hours with the Pimsleur Russian courses. I was far from fluent and it definitely helped, but I think it is possible to travel in Uzbekistan speaking only English. Of course, the more you know of a local language, the more enriching your experience will be.In all, I visited five Uzbek cities (Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva and Nukus), and took four trains and two cars plus some taxis and subways. I stayed in family-run guesthouses in Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. In Tashkent, I stayed in an AirBnB which was essentially a family-run hostel. In Nukus, I stayed in a hotel. All of these places provided breakfast served at about 8a. The costs were typically about $20/night.

Transportation

Uzbekistan has invested in mass transit. They have spent less on roads. Thus, the roads are bumpy, full of holes and generally not a great way of getting around. Take the train where possible.

High speed rail is available on some routes. The Afrosiyob runs from Tashkent to Samarkand and Bukhara and continue to Urgench. I took it as far as Bukhara and the top speed was about 230 km/h. It is everything it was supposed to be — fast, clean, spacious. A step down from that was the train I took from Bukhara to Khiva. The cars were similar to the Afrosiyob, but the travel was slower. Overall, faster than driving and not a bad way to go.

I took Kazakh rail from Nukus to Beyneu, Kazakhstan. Kazakhstan has not invested in rail — and it shows. I had read about this train and dreaded it. It was a 14 hour journey across a mostly desert landscape. The car was not well maintained. It was dirty, noisy, chaotic and overcrowded. The cars were old Soviet sleeper cars with top and bottom bunks. The bunks are not in private compartments, but kind of arranged into pods where six bunks are in one pod and the aisle goes through. The cars are typically oversold, so only the top bunks can be used for sleeping. The bottom bunks become seating. We had eight or nine people in our pod.

When I got on the train, and I was one of the first ones on the train, I noticed that a significant number of melons had already been loaded on the train and stored under seats and in luggage storage compartments. Melon is popular here and I guess they grow it in Uzbekistan and have a deal to transport melons to Kazakhstan by passenger rail. I also noticed that all of the concessions on the train were handled by normal people, unlike Uzbek rail where only uniformed people were selling things on the train. This little bit of capitalism greatly increased the offerings. The train was a bit of a rolling bazaar with smoked fish, soup, manti (dumplings), bread, samsa, chai in old vodka bottles, some yogurt drink in old water bottles, water, soda pop, children’s clothing, womens clothing, socks, sim cards, money exchange (you need to do this BEFORE you cross the border, the money changers don’t cross and your Uzbek money is nearly impossible to exchange outside of Uzbekistan.)

As far as I could tell, I was the only non-Uzbek/Kazakh person on the train. Therefore, I was a novelty. All of the people in my pod, had made this trip many times in the past, their passports were full of stamps. When the Soviets divided these nomadic lands into countries,the lines often had little regard for the people living their. As a result, family members were cut off from one another and this trip was necessitated. Nowhere else have I seen border guard as meticulous at placing a stamp. The stamps are arranged eight to page to maximize space. My passport got passed around among the other passengers who had never seen an American Passport. My iPhone was also passed around. It seems like Samsung and older Nokias have a lock on the market — iPhones were not even sold in the Beeline store.

As the sun came up after our 4a departure, things got a bit more lively. I had packed bread , candy and water for the trip and figured that would get me by. After a while one of the men in my pod offered me some chai from the vodka bottle and poured me a Donald Duck coffee mug full. He also gave me two samsas and two extremely hard boiled eggs. By mid-morning people were setting around talking like old friends. The conversation was entirely in Uzbek and I didn’t understand a word. I was offered Gat (multiple spellings, a legal substance chewed by men throughout the region. From what I’ve read it has effects similar to caffeine and marijuana). I turned this down as I had no idea how it would effect my and didn’t want to find out halfway through a 14 hour train ride.

After a while a cup of the ubiquitous yogurt drink was placed before me. I didn’t want it, but would much rather be polite and drink something I don’t like than risk offending the wonderful hospitality I have been afforded. I drank it and it wasn’t as bad as I expected. I wondered what it was called and didn’t know how to ask, so I got out my phone and used Google Translate. I had previously had problems with GT when trying to translate a dinner menu. The place I was eating had various types of kebabs. I was fine with any except the liver. Using GT, it translated from Uzbek the first two to be ‘Molotov’ and ‘Bomb’. I was pretty sure both it was wrong in both cases.

Anyway, I typed my question and handed my phone to Gulchera, a 40 year old, Uzbek, divorced mother of 2, who was quite competent in all things. She filled out the customs forms for everyone in our pod. So, Gulchera responded back, it was called ‘Coska’ (phonetic spelling in English alphabet). It further translated it to mean ‘nipple’. At this point, I considered my options was (a) Gulchera messing with me, (b) was GT really bad at Uzbek, or, (c) is this supposed to mean something like mother’s milk. I saw no way forward, so I let it drop. She used GT to ask me a few questions that I don’t remember and showed me pictures of her children and her work and some selfies. She takes a lot of selfies and she was sitting right beside me. Soon she took my phone and typed her name and number into. The old man sitting across from us started pantoming that I could put a ring on her finger and take her to America. As flattering as it is to be an overweight 52 year old and be hit on by the 40 year old Gulchera, I had about 4 hours left and no place to go.

I went to the bathroom — on this train that is not some place you want to spend much time. If it were clean it would have been disgusting. It was not clean. From the shoe treads on the seat, it appears that people squat on the seat to do their business — on a moving train, I just can’t even imagine. Maybe with regular yoga classes I could get there, but damn, where’s the nearest hospital? So, while I am standing in the thankfully long line, another woman gets in line behind. An Uzbek with died blond hair in a tight Paris T shirt. She strikes up a conversation in what little common tongue we have. She tells me her name and asked mine. I honestly don’t remember her name (though later that night I ended up on a five hour minibus ride to Aktau with her.

Border crossings took over an hour on both the Uzbek and Kazakh sides and we eventually rolled into Beyneu.

I took a private car from Khiva to Nukus. I arranged this through the hotel in Khiva and paid $40 (I actually don’t think it would be that hard to travel throughout Uzbekistan using only USD, certainly the further you get from Tashkent, the more people prefer dollars to som.). The roads are rough, two lane and not particularly well maintained. The Hotel Alibek in Khiva is run by the son in the family who is probably in his mid 30s? His parents and wife and children also live and work on the property. The son arranged for my car. On the day I was supposed to leave, the son was gone. I was supposed to leave at noon, but at 10a was packed and ready and sitting outside reading. His mother asked if I was ready to go, I said I was. She summoned her husband to drive me to Nukus in the family car. I don’t think this is what the son had intended, but I doubt he will cross her.

The Cities

Tashkent: The only reason to visit Tashkent is that you must visit Tashkent. If you fly in to Uzbekistan, you will fly into Tashkent. If you take rail, you will most likely pass through Tashkent. It is big (2.5 million people), dirty and and chaotic. While you’re there you might as well visit the Chorsu bazaar and ride the subway. I stayed in an AirBnB that was essentially a hostel. From the outside, the building was an old Soviet-era brutalist apartment building with all the appeal of hammered dogshit. It frankly looked like The Wire may have been filmed there. Inside, it was lovely and modern.

Samarkand: The crown jewel of Uzbekistan and its second largest city. The must-see sights are the Registan, The Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum complex and the Ulug Beg Observatory. There are a number of other interesting and beautiful sites to see, but these were the ones that I found particularly interesting. In my opinion, all were walkable, though the observatory was about three miles away. Shah-i-Zinda and the Afrosiyob archaeological site are on the way, so you can break the walk up. I stayed at the Furkat Guesthouse, a funky family-run place that had been around since the beginning of time. They serve a wonderful breakfast on their rooftop terrace. It is about two blocks from the Registan.

Samarkand is changing. There are commercial strips on two sides of the Registan and as you move away from the old town, new construction is going up at a rapid pace. I didn’t really make it out to the new part of town, but you pass through it on the way to the train station.

Bukhara: There appears to be something akin to a historic preservation commission in Bukhara. Many of the buildings had gold plaques identifying them as having protected status. As such, Bukhara was the best preserved of the three historic cities I visited. Among the must-see sights are the Ark, the mosque behind the Ark, the Judicial museum, Lyab Hauz and Chor Minor. There are many other things to see in Bukhara and nearly all are close together, so if you stay near the historic part of town, you could knock out a bunch. For example, the Ark, the mosque, and the judicial museum (home of the bug pit) are essentially next to each other. The Lyab Hauz is a 16th Century oasis and is the center of activity in the town. In the evenings, there’s music and dancing and several restaurant line the area. Chor Minor requires that you find it. It is small and tucked down an alleyway. And that is probably the best thing to do in Bukhara — wander the alleyways. People will approach you and start a conversation and you should take the time to exhaust your common vocabulary. It is also worth the time to walk out past the bazaar to what remains of the city walls.

Like Samarkand, quite a bit of development is going on outside the old city. I am not sure where any of that will lead, but I think it is indicative that Uzbekistan is beginning to realize the treasures and the potential revenue stream of exploiting them.

Khiva: Khiva is the smallest of the three and also well preserved. Most of its walls are intact and some can be walked on by buying the VIP pass (150,000 som/$16). The pass also allows you to climb the minaret, which is worthwhile if you are in shape. There are a number of museums in Khiva and the pass allows you access to all of them. I will say that most of the museums provide little context and are mostly just a collection of items. That said it is remarkable to see. I stayed at the Hotel Alibek which is across the street from the entrance.

Nukus: It has an art museum that is impressive. After that, the second and third attractions that pop up on Lonely Planet, TripAdvisor and others are the bazaar and walking along the river. The bazaar is large and worth seeing if you are there. It you’ve seen the bazaars elsewhere, it’s not worth a special trip. Walking along the river is like…walking along the river. There’s nothing wrong with Nukus, but it is a one trick pony.

The Food

So, my impressions of Uzbek cuisine are that they may eat less plov than they get credit for. When I was reading about Uzbekistan prior to my trip, that was all I heard about Uzbek culinary traditions was the national dish was plov. I have had plov twice. Granted, a rice dish seems like a strange choice for a country located almost entirely in a desert. It also seems like an odd choice for what was mostly a nomadic culture. So what did I see most of? Round bread call Naan or Non. It’s thick on the outside and thin toward the center. And meat on a stick (kebabs) of all shapes and sizes. They also eat a lot of fruit. There are a few other prepared dishes such as lagman, a noodle dish. I had a couple of variations on this, The first was kind of a beef and noodle stew, the second as almost like spaghetti and meat sauce. When ordering off the menu, lagman was always lagman followed by a second word. Ithink this means that lagman describes the thick,long, doughy noodles and the second word tells you how its prepared. And that’s where knowing the Uzbek language comes in. Good luck.

Ashlyamfu, which the internet gives credit to Kyrgyzstan for has its roots in China can also be found.

I subsisted primarily on bread and kebabs. I resisted for a while as everything I had read had not mentioned these and I assumed that they were just brought in for tourist, which is possible. After a while, it was apparent that kebabs were everywhere and being enjoyed by Uzbeks and tourists alike. It seems like a natural fit for the region. The people and language are afterall Turkic. So, I think plov is probably something like roast beef in the US. It’s comfort food. We’ve all eaten it, we all like it, but we don’t eat it everyday.

The tourism industry seems to be modernizing rapidly. Bukhara has double-decker, hop-on, hop-off buses. Hot dogs and soft serve ice cream are available everywhere. Something that I have only seen in Uzbekistan are little stands selling “Gas Voda” (phonetic from the cyrillic). These stands will have an upside down glass cylinder or vial with a tap at the bottom. When you order, they fill a glass with carbonated water and add a squirt of syrup from the cylinder. When I first saw this, I didn’t know what to think. One of the stands had a diagram of a pregnant woman drinking one with various text and arrows which appeared to be health claims. So, I thought, “oh great, this is essentially Uzbek Kombucha, no thanks.” I assumed it would taste bad and emit bad smells from my pores. I eventually broke down and tried one. It is quite good. It is kind of carmelly, kind of gingery, kind of a cross between cream soda and ginger ale. A small costs about 5 cents and well worth it.

I spent a total of about 10 days in Uzbekistan. It has some things that you are simply not going to see anywhere else. If you’re into history, get your geek on. If you’re a foodie, it’s probably not a good fit.

Crossing Over -- Kazakhstan to Uzbekistan

As you move south through Kazakhstan in to Uzbekistan, things change dramatically. The terrain, the climate, the language, the chaos. The people also seem to be friendlier (not that those in Astana and Almaty were not — they may be a little more used to foreigners and don’t appreciate the novelty). I arrived in Shymkent late and went straight to City Hostel. It was new and beautiful. At night, Shymkent looked liked a modern city, similar to Almaty.

Aside from the friendly people constantly welcoming me to their country, I found Shymkent and (later) Uzbekistan to be hard. I caught a mild stomach bug while in Shymkent and felt on the verge of throwing up most of the way to Tashkent. Then, my taxi dropped me off down the street from where I needed to be, so I had to lug a heavy pack up the street and up six flights of stairs in 90 degree heat. I spent the first afternoon napping and ate very little for the next few days, which was heartbreaking at Chorsu Bazaar.

In Shymkent, I checked in and asked for advice on how to get to Tashkent. The woman at the desk gave me good instructions on how to get to the bus station to catch the bus that goes into Tashkent.

By day, Shymkent is nothing like Almaty. It is dusty, loud and chaotic. I tried to follow the instructions to get to the right bus station to buy a ticket to Tashkent. I got off either too soon or too late and decided to catch a Yandex cab. Finding the right bus station proved to be a problem. I chose the wrong one. The one I went to didn’t have a bus, but had marshrutkas (minibus operating when full). Rather than try to get to the other bus station, I took a marshrutka. The marshrutkas do not cross the border. You have to cross on foot and then catch a second ride on the Uzbek side into Tashkent. In all, it cost $2 to get to the border and $3 to get from the border into Tashkent and I got there sooner.

Surprisingly, at the border the Kazakh guards were mildly dickish, making me count my money and having the dog sniff my things. The Uzbek guards were nice and each one (you will talk to several) welcomed me to their country.

Once across the border, I was set upon by money changers and taxi drivers. I changed money at the rate of 9000 som/$, google had the rate at 8000, so I felt like I stole from him. Later, I found a place in Samarkand that had 9400, so I guess you can’t even trust google here.

I was then set upon by cab drivers offering to take me into town for between 30000 and 80000 som. I went with the guy at 30000. We walked to his cab and he opened his trunk so I could put my bag in. The trunk was full of stuff, including an old tube-type TV. I said I’d just put it in the backseat. He said no and insisted in putting it in his trunk and tying it shut. Then he insisted that I sit in the front. Where upon three more guys hop in the back (presumably one of them was the owner of the TV) and we headed into Tashkent. We talked in what little common language we had. He asked about Trump and I signaled thumbs down. He seemed surprised, but I guess negative opinions about the government aren’t expressed here. It’s a freedom we have for now.