Food

Favorite Countries for Eating, Ranked 1 through 41 (Updated for Bolivia)

Here are the countries that I have visited ranked by their food. I spent a day watching corporate training videos and needed some way of maintaining my sanity and this was it — at least that’s how it started. I have since updated it ans I traveled to more countries. I have excluded the US and microstates such as the Vatican, San Marino, etc. I have also excluded Uruguay and Brasil because I spent so little time there. I should note that I tend to eat pretty local, I probably don’t know where to get the best burger in Bangkok. Update: by food I really mean cuisine. My rankings are based on the local food, not the availablity of chains from other countries. Variety figures very high in my rankings. You can yse whatever criteria you feel appropriate.

  1. Peru: It has a cuisine that I could subsist on long-term. Ceviche, Pollo a la brassa, and parilla. Wonderful street food including these wonderful little donuts made of sweet potato flour called picarones. I went on a ceviche bender that caused a gout flareup. I don’t know what they do to rotisserie chicken but pollo a la brassa is amazing. There are also some wonderful stews like Aji de Gallina.

  2. Vietnam: An outstanding food tour in Ho Chi Mnh City. Whether it’s Pho, Banh Mi or Bun, not all of the best foods in the world come from Vietnam just five or six of them. Note: there is no rice flour in the Banh Mi. The crispy crust is made by misting with water during baking.

  3. Mexico: An amazingly diverse cuisine. All you really need to be happy are street tacos in Mexico City, but there’s so much more. Churros from Churreria El Moro, Sanborn’s for nostalgia, the seven moles of Oaxaca….

  4. Thailand: Great stir fries, great curries. Thailand is a bit of a crossroads with Islamic and Hindu influences as well as Portuguese. They are not afraid of spice, but not all Thai food is spicy.

  5. Morocco: I had the most amazing tajine for my first meal in Marrakesh and many other great meals followed. The biggest issue with food the great desert band that stretches from the Sahara through Arabia into Uzbekistan is that the food is all similar and kind of changes along a continuum. I think couscous is unique to Morocco and I don’t recall seeing any falafel there. So, the biggest knock would be less variety, but still very good.

  6. Colombia: The down side is that the food is generally lightly spiced. The upside is that there are many fruits not found anywhere else and some interesting cross-cultural influences including Sephardic Jews, Africans, indigenous, and t eh Spanish. Many good bakeries, seafood and bunuelos. The country appears to be celebrating its own cuisine now. Reflecting on this post a year later and I just keep coming back to the fruit. It is like none other.

  7. Turkey: Morocco, Turkey and Jordan are basically tied. I think Turkey may have more variety than the other two. There’s a lot of grilled meat on sticks and flat breads. There’s also the world’s best desert — kunefe.

  8. Jordan: Hashem. Everyone will tell you to go to Hashem. Well guess what? Go to Hashem. It lives up to its billing. Jordan also has kunefe and falafel and meat on stick as well as many other lovely foods.

  9. Ethiopia: The food is wonderful and among the most unique on the planet — not even bordering countries share that much with their cuisine. It was the original coffee culture and the only country in the world that grows teff.

  10. Trinidad: Trini has influences from all over the world. Their Indian food is not Indian, their Chinese is not Chinese, their Middle Eastern (note: the British sent the best ME cooks to Mexico), their African is not African. It all comes together to make a unique cuisin.

  11. Greece: Greek food is also similar to that middle eastern continuum, but they have pork and shellfish.

  12. Portugal: Many lovely things to eat here. They have brought many things back from the colonies which has helped their cuisine, I stayed in a suburb of Lisbon and a Mozambique guy cooked at the restaurant across the street from me. We talked over Google Translate. He would ask me general questions about things I liked and come up with something. He made a wonderful Peri Peri sauce. There was also great seafood though most of the fish eaten in Portugal are from places other than Portugal.

  13. Bolivia: Bolivia struggles with it’s culinary identity. It was once part of Peru and has Peruvian influences ex-seafood in the west and Argentian and Brazilian influences in the east. The south’s main source or meat are llama and chicken.

  14. Grenada: Grenada is the spice island and uses spices in unexpected way. I particularly liked a bun that was spiced with nutmeg, some grilled chicken that was perfectly charred, and the chocolate is as good as it gets.

  15. Argentina: Argentina does many things well and some things hardly at all. There are three essential ingredients to Argentinian cuisine: meat, cheese, and bread. The bakeries are nonperiel. The pizza is excellent. I was a little diappointed in the parrilla as they tend to overcook (order: jugoso). There’s just not enough use of fruits and vegetables, or fish to push it higher.

  16. Spain: Tapas and paella, what else do you need. Jamon Iberico, I suppose.

  17. France: It’s been a while since I was there and that was mostly Paris.

  18. Barbados: This could be higher had I known that Saturday was pickle day and also chicken feet day. I wasted it on a food tour. There are some good things here, but they really don’t know what spice is.

  19. Israel: This is also part of that Middle East continuum.

  20. Italy: Naples had great food, Milan not so much and everywhere else was in between. Italy is really a bunch of little places, each having its own cuisine. It’s more German to the north and better to the south. Naples was once one of the two Sicilies and controlled by Spain.It’s where good pizza comes from.

  21. Poland: We had some excellent meals in Krakow. Perogies, jelly donuts, the ancestor of the bagel and much more.

  22. Czechia: The food is pretty heavy and surprisingly similar to French in some instances. The Garlic soup is a favorite.

  23. UK: I moved the UK up on the strength of Scotland’s haggis. Overall, the food is bland and has a lot of meat pies and scones and tea with milk. The best food here is Indian and good cood from the former empire is everywhere. Only American tourists eat British food these days.

  24. Ireland: This food is very familiar to me, though I had no corned beef while there. The food was generally good but unremarkable to my palate.

  25. Germany: I unwittingly showed up at the beginning of Spargel season once. The Germans sure do lover their asparagus.

  26. Slovakia: I only spent one night there, but had a cherry-poppy seed strudel that was so good I had a second.

  27. Ecuador: We ate at several high end restaurants that were in Quito. We also had nachos at the highest German brew in the world. We should seen that coming. Oh, and chicken ceviche.

  28. Panama: This is a tough one. We spent four days there and most of that time was spent in the San Francisco area of Panama City, so we had little authentic Panamanian food. We did have some excellent seafood at Mercado del Marisco and Panamanian food at Diablicios. Probably not a great sampling.

  29. Belgium: Mostly I remember drinking there, but the food must have been good too.

  30. Austria: Very short trip to Austria.

  31. Hungary: I got a little tired of the Hungarian fare, but Budapest has the largest Chinatown in Europe and I had a wonderful conversation with the widow of a former diplomat who spent a lot of time in China and Virginia.

  32. Azerbaijan: It’s also part of the continuum. They have a flat bread they call Naan, plov and a lot of meat on sticks.

  33. Georgia: There are some excellent dishes here and their wine alone maybe should place them higher. I have to say that the dish they are most famous for Khachapuri is not very good. It’s basically cheese bread — and not very good cheese bread. If you want good cheese bread, go to Naples. They call it Margherita and you can get it anywhere. The Ojakhuri is excellent and the wine is outstanding.

  34. Cyprus: Similar to Greek.

  35. Uzbekistan: At the far end of the continuum.

  36. Kazakhstan: The transition from Arabic to Chinese occurs here.

  37. Netherlands: They overuse sprinkles on bread.

  38. Canada: Tim Hortons and poutine are their greatest culinary contributions. Canada may also suffer from being close to the US and I overlook it. It also is a place with a lot of international options that don’t really count as “Canadian”.

  39. Nigeria: There are really two things that I don’t like about Nigerian food, (1) texture and (2) smoked fish. Not every country cuts its meat the same. In much of the world, tough, gristley meat is prized and it is butchered for that. They also put fish bones in their soup which I can’t get past. The smoked fish is a strong flavor that is difficult for me to like. Other than that, the flavors and the spice level are pleasant. I could see Nigerian food get popular, but it needs to go through a westernizing process first.

  40. Ghana: I feel that I should give it another shot. It wasn’t much to my tastes, but this was our first trip to the developing world, so maybe it was me.

  41. South Africa: We had Italian, Mexican, Portuguese, burgers, Ghanaian, Ethiopian, Cameroonian. There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of South African and that’s too bad. So, there is good food. just not South African.

As I said, I try to eat as local as possible. And this list is obviously subjective. Some of these places, I was only in a short time and others for longer periods and that may have affected my opinion as well.

Favorite Countries for Eating, Ranked 1 through 39 (Updated for Grenada and Barbados) (Copy)

Here are the countries that I have visited ranked by their food. I spent a day watching corporate training videos and needed some way of maintaining my sanity and this was it — at least that’s how it started. I have since updated it ans I traveled to more countries. I have excluded the US and microstates such as the Vatican, San Marino, etc. I have also excluded Uruguay and Brasil because I spent so little time there. I should note that I tend to eat pretty local, I probably don’t know where to get the best burger in Bangkok. Update: by food I really mean cuisine. My rankings are based on the local food, not the availablity of chains from other countries. Variety figures very high in my rankings. You can yse whatever criteria you feel appropriate.

  1. Peru: It has a cuisine that I could subsist on long-term. Ceviche, Pollo a la brassa, and parilla. Wonderful street food including these wonderful little donuts made of sweet potato flour called picarones. I went on a ceviche bender that caused a gout flareup. I don’t know what they do to rotisserie chicken but pollo a la brassa is amazing. There are also some wonderful stews like Aji de Gallina.

  2. Vietnam: An outstanding food tour in Ho Chi Mnh City. Whether it’s Pho, Banh Mi or Bun, not all of the best foods in the world come from Vietnam just five or six of them. Note: there is no rice flour in the Banh Mi. The crispy crust is made by misting with water during baking.

  3. Mexico: An amazingly diverse cuisine. All you really need to be happy are street tacos in Mexico City, but there’s so much more. Churros from Churreria El Moro, Sanborn’s for nostalgia, the seven moles of Oaxaca….

  4. Thailand: Great stir fries, great curries. Thailand is a bit of a crossroads with Islamic and Hindu influences as well as Portuguese. They are not afraid of spice, but not all Thai food is spicy.

  5. Morocco: I had the most amazing tajine for my first meal in Marrakesh and many other great meals followed. The biggest issue with food the great desert band that stretches from the Sahara through Arabia into Uzbekistan is that the food is all similar and kind of changes along a continuum. I think couscous is unique to Morocco and I don’t recall seeing any falafel there. So, the biggest knock would be less variety, but still very good.

  6. Colombia: The down side is that the food is generally lightly spiced. The upside is that there are many fruits not found anywhere else and some interesting cross-cultural influences including Sephardic Jews, Africans, indigenous, and t eh Spanish. Many good bakeries, seafood and bunuelos. The country appears to be celebrating its own cuisine now. Reflecting on this post a year later and I just keep coming back to the fruit. It is like none other.

  7. Turkey: Morocco, Turkey and Jordan are basically tied. I think Turkey may have more variety than the other two. There’s a lot of grilled meat on sticks and flat breads. There’s also the world’s best desert — kunefe.

  8. Jordan: Hashem. Everyone will tell you to go to Hashem. Well guess what? Go to Hashem. It lives up to its billing. Jordan also has kunefe and falafel and meat on stick as well as many other lovely foods.

  9. Ethiopia: The food is wonderful and among the most unique on the planet — not even bordering countries share that much with their cuisine. It was the original coffee culture and the only country in the world that grows teff.

  10. Greece: Greek food is also similar to that middle eastern continuum, but they have pork and shellfish.

  11. Portugal: Many lovely things to eat here. They have brought many things back from the colonies which has helped their cuisine, I stayed in a suburb of Lisbon and a Mozambique guy cooked at the restaurant across the street from me. We talked over Google Translate. He would ask me general questions about things I liked and come up with something. He made a wonderful Peri Peri sauce. There was also great seafood though most of the fish eaten in Portugal are from places other than Portugal.

  12. Grenada: Grenada is the spice island and uses spices in unexpected way. I particularly liked a bun that was spiced with nutmeg, some grilled chicken that was perfectly charred, and the chocolate is as good as it gets.

  13. Argentina: Argentina does many things well and some things hardly at all. There are three essential ingredients to Argentinian cuisine: meat, cheese, and bread. The bakeries are nonperiel. The pizza is excellent. I was a little diappointed in the parrilla as they tend to overcook (order: jugoso). There’s just not enough use of fruits and vegetables, or fish to push it higher.

  14. Spain: Tapas and paella, what else do you need. Jamon Iberico, I suppose.

  15. France: It’s been a while since I was there and that was mostly Paris.

  16. Barbados: This could be higher had I known that Saturday was pickle day and also chicken feet day. I wasted it on a food tour. There are some good things here, but they really don’t know what spice is.

  17. Israel: This is also part of that Middle East continuum.

  18. Italy: Naples had great food, Milan not so much and everywhere else was in between. Italy is really a bunch of little places, each having its own cuisine. It’s more German to the north and better to the south. Naples was once one of the two Sicilies and controlled by Spain.It’s where good pizza comes from.

  19. Poland: We had some excellent meals in Krakow. Perogies, jelly donuts, the ancestor of the bagel and much more.

  20. Czechia: The food is pretty heavy and surprisingly similar to French in some instances. The Garlic soup is a favorite.

  21. UK: I moved the UK up on the strength of Scotland’s haggis. Overall, the food is bland and has a lot of meat pies and scones and tea with milk. The best food here is Indian and good cood from the former empire is everywhere. Only American tourists eat British food these days.

  22. Ireland: This food is very familiar to me, though I had no corned beef while there. The food was generally good but unremarkable to my palate.

  23. Germany: I unwittingly showed up at the beginning of Spargel season once. The Germans sure do lover their asparagus.

  24. Slovakia: I only spent one night there, but had a cherry-poppy seed strudel that was so good I had a second.

  25. Ecuador: We ate at several high end restaurants that were in Quito. We also had nachos at the highest German brew in the world. We should seen that coming. Oh, and chicken ceviche.

  26. Panama: This is a tough one. We spent four days there and most of that time was spent in the San Francisco area of Panama City, so we had little authentic Panamanian food. We did have some excellent seafood at Mercado del Marisco and Panamanian food at Diablicios. Probably not a great sampling.

  27. Belgium: Mostly I remember drinking there, but the food must have been good too.

  28. Austria: Very short trip to Austria.

  29. Hungary: I got a little tired of the Hungarian fare, but Budapest has the largest Chinatown in Europe and I had a wonderful conversation with the widow of a former diplomat who spent a lot of time in China and Virginia.

  30. Azerbaijan: It’s also part of the continuum. They have a flat bread they call Naan, plov and a lot of meat on sticks.

  31. Georgia: There are some excellent dishes here and their wine alone maybe should place them higher. I have to say that the dish they are most famous for Khachapuri is not very good. It’s basically cheese bread — and not very good cheese bread. If you want good cheese bread, go to Naples. They call it Margherita and you can get it anywhere. The Ojakhuri is excellent and the wine is outstanding.

  32. Cyprus: Similar to Greek.

  33. Uzbekistan: At the far end of the continuum.

  34. Kazakhstan: The transition from Arabic to Chinese occurs here.

  35. Netherlands: They overuse sprinkles on bread.

  36. Canada: Tim Hortons and poutine are their greatest culinary contributions. Canada may also suffer from being close to the US and I overlook it. It also is a place with a lot of international options that don’t really count as “Canadian”.

  37. Nigeria: There are really two things that I don’t like about Nigerian food, (1) texture and (2) smoked fish. Not every country cuts its meat the same. In much of the world, tough, gristley meat is prized and it is butchered for that. They also put fish bones in their soup which I can’t get past. The smoked fish is a strong flavor that is difficult for me to like. Other than that, the flavors and the spice level are pleasant. I could see Nigerian food get popular, but it needs to go through a westernizing process first.

  38. Ghana: I feel that I should give it another shot. It wasn’t much to my tastes, but this was our first trip to the developing world, so maybe it was me.

  39. South Africa: We had Italian, Mexican, Portuguese, burgers, Ghanaian, Ethiopian, Cameroonian. There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of South African and that’s too bad. So, there is good food. just not South African.

As I said, I try to eat as local as possible. And this list is obviously subjective. Some of these places, I was only in a short time and others for longer periods and that may have affected my opinion as well.

South Africa: The Fourth Corner of Africa and a little Ethiopia Thrown In. (mostly Johannesburg and a little Pretoria)

It’s not often that I experience culture shock. Travelling to Ethiopia I had mentally prepared myself for the potential culture shock of the Africa nation least affected by colonialism. I was also concerned about potential civil unrest and over-planned to alleviate any concerns. I did this to the detriment of South Africa where we would travel next. South Africa was an after thought as it is the most developed, most western nation in Africa. I think we both felt the culture shock in South Africa.

We knew going in that South Africa, aside from being the most developed nation in Africa, it also had incredibly high rates of violent crime, and was only a few generations removed from apartheid —essentially it was living its antebellum period. The culture shock came when we arrived in a country that was almost American. Johannesburg did not seem at all European, there were no old colonial buildings like those scattered around Latin America or Asia, it was new and modern, the streets were wide, chain restaurants were everywhere, and the supermarkets were where people shopped. Seemingly nothing was left of the indigenous culture.

When gold and later diamonds were discovered, the Dutch and then the British wanted it and fought over it. Johannesburg itself is built over gold mines — not near gold mines, but there are literally gold mines in the city. Many of these mines and their tailings piles are being mined today illegally by immigrants and the poor. It is no longer economical for big mining companies to do this, but in the informal economy overhead costs are low.

As with most or all colonial endeavors, they are fueled by economics. Lands without natural resources and/or people that can be enslaved aren’t colonized. South Africa had both. The colonists stripped away all indigenous culture and replaced it with capitalism and capitalism is about all that exists today - in the large cities at least. Johannesburg is some weird combination of rights and wrongs like what you would get if someone tried to recreate the US without ever having been there. It is the bizarro US. It is a country that is a melting pot where things don’t really mix. By far the largest population is black. There are also significant populations of whites, and also some Indians and Asians. There are also colored which includes Indians, Asians, and any mix of races and is not considered to be derogatory, it’s just a necessary term in society that defines itself along racial lines.

The money is still mostly white, politicians are mostly black. That was the deal struck to end apartheid. Corruption maintains the status quo where the rich get richer and poor are kept in their place. Whites account for about 15% of the population and that’s declining, mostly due to emigration to the US and Europe. Blacks account for about 82% of the population and that’s increasing mostly through immigration from other African nations. The people we met which mostly included a collection of servants, tour guides, and Uber drivers were pleasant, upbeat and entrepreneurial. These people worked incredibly hard, looked to the government for nothing, and were largely trying to make a go of it on their own. I guess conservatives had it right all along — the people really just needed to be fucked into being entrepreneurs. A university professor told me that the university requires students spend 60 hours in community engagement — not community service. In community engagement students go out into the community and work with people in the community to complete a project. Life is so hard here and the unemployment rate so high, that students may take several years after graduation to establish themselves in careers that this is important for the community and the students to develop skills to build a society and to understand what they can contribute to the society. He believes that the community engagement is performing a role that the government should be providing, but is failing at.

As for immigrants, people from every African country as well as parts of Asia and India have made their way to South Africa. They have all set up their own communities with their own restaurants, they have no political power and thus their needs are largely ignored by the government. So, they too are entrepreneurs. We went on a food tour in Yeoville (pronounced Youville), an area that counts immigrants from 22 African nations among its residents. In order to go on the tour, it was necessary to hire a car and driver to drop us off and wait on us. It was possible to get Uber to take us there, but no driver would ever come and pick us up. The streets were alive, restaurants serving cuisine from all of these countries were represented, and a market that sold ingredients was also present. The streets were in bad shape and trash was everywhere. The government simply doesn’t care about a place where only 5% of the people can vote.

During the booming years when apartheid existed and the rest of the world didn’t know or didn’t care, the white middle class built beautiful neighborhoods in places like Johannesburg and Pretoria. The blacks were sequestered into squalor in places like Soweto (SOuthWEst TOwnships) and were allowed to come into Johannesburg to work for whites, but Johannesburg was essentially what we in America would be called a sundown town where blacks had to leave by a certain time. This made whites feel safe in their beautiful homes. Then the world began to notice the wrongs of apartheid and mostly shut South Africa out of the world financial markets and apartheid ended. Whites panicked. They were afraid that blacks, who greatly outnumbered them, would extract revenge because in the post-apartheid world, blacks could go wherever they wanted, whenever they wanted. So, the whites built fences and walls and gates around their beautiful homes (the guesthouse we are in now has a beautiful bay window on the front that looks out onto a carport and gate.) As blacks achieved middle class affluency, some moved into the houses surrounded by walls, so whites moved to the suburbs (does this sound familiar?). We asked a black tour guide why retribution never happened and he responded because Mandela said not to. Such power and wisdom, is it any wonder the man is revered?

I don’t want to give the impression that there aren’t reasons to visit South Africa or that it isn’t safe or that you will hate your time here, it is merely the weirdest fucking place I have ever visited. It’s tortured past figures into everything. There is a lot of violent crime, but that doesn’t make the entire country unsafe. It does mean that you need to take precautions. The people are incredibly friendly and the races do interact publicly at least. Once you get over the preconceived notions of all the things that you shouldn’t do it is pleasant and the climate is mild.

The most popular thing to do in South Africa is to go on a safari. This was not something that I was ever that interested in doing, so we booked the one that checked the box — the one, that when people asked if we went of a safari we could say yes and not have to explain why we didn’t go on a safari. Turns out, I liked the safari. From Johannesburg, a one day safari from Pilansburg National Park can be had. Longer (3 days or more) safaris to Kruger National Park are also possible. For Pilansburg, we left about 6a and returned at about 7p. It is 2-3 hours each way. When there, they load in an open air vehicle and drive you out into the park. We saw brown hyenas, white rhinos, elephants, jackals, cheetahs, zebras, impalas, wildebeests, giraffes, about everything but lions and hippos.

We also toured Johannesburg and Soweto and the Apartheid Museum on a one day tour and the aforementioned food tour of Yeoville. On our own we went to the neighborhoods of Melville, Maboneng, and Sandton. Melville and Maboneng are both middle class and bohemian to different degrees. Maboneng is known for its street art and is more vibrant. Melville is more affluent. Sandton is new and very wealthy. It is Africa’s Wall Street. We also spent some time in Pretoria where we met with some University people. Pretoria is the center of government and where the embassies are. It is wealthy and modern.

So, can you get a good meal in Johannesburg? Absolutely. They have Indian, Japanese. Chinese, Mexican, French, Portuguese and many more. If you are willing to go into sketchy neighborhoods where Uber may not pick you up, you can even find African restaurants. Just don’t go looking for South African cuisine — the colonists killed that off years ago. South Africa also has many nice strip centers and shopping malls with very nice food courts offering food from around the world just not from here.

A few miscellaneous notes: The electricity uses a 3-prong plug with all round plugs. My multi-country adapter did not include this one. Both of the places we stayed had an adapter to the 2-prong UK style. The country does take electronic payments and credit cards in most places. Smaller establishments and roadside stands probably won’t.

Ethiopia: The Third Corner of Africa

At the end of our trip to Ethiopia, my third trip to Africa after Ghana and Morocco. Soon, I will be in South Africa completing the fourth corner. Though Africa is not a rectangle, the areas all seem pretty different. An African Studies professor once said that the only generalizations that are true for all of Africa are that (1) it’s big, and (2) it’s complicated. So far, I agree.

Ethiopia is a trip that nearly didn’t happen. The news coming out of the country right now is not positive. The US State Department has rated it a 3 for reconsider travel and the British Home Office published a map with different parts of the country color-coded as red, yellow, and green. Some of the areas that we most wanted to visit fell into the red zone (Lalibela). My wife had some work obligations in Addis Ababa, so we decided to press ahead albeit cautiously. In moving forward we did set some parameters. We decided to stay at the Capital Hotel and Spa rather than our normal, more local style of an AirBnB or guesthouse. This was because of the security of a controlled entry and an armed guard and the potential for Plan B and an exit strategy. Although I have long known that government agencies like the State Department and the Home Office err on the side caution and with good reason, I was always reluctant to ignore their advice.

By staying at the Capital, we chose an upscale hotel of Swedish ownership. With security in place and somewhat neutral ownership, the threat of a terrorist attack seemed low. With the spa, we felt if wandering Addis was unsafe, we could easily switch to a spa vacation. If it felt like we really just needed to get out of the country, a larger hotel with a shuttle and staff might be helpful. As it turned out we stuck to Plan A. My wife completed her work, then we booked tours with Go Addis Tours (www,goaddistours.com). The tours included a day long tour of Addis including food, a trip to Harar and a trip to Lalibela.

First, I should say Ethiopia is hard. It is not the place to make your first foray into Africa. It is rewarding — it is one of our favorite trips and a place we very much want to return to. Addis is a huge city with a modern commercial center that we barely went in to. Our most frequented areas were Bole (around our hotel) and the area around the University of Addis Ababa. We also visited Mount Entoto, a national park that is within Addis and its highest point. I walked around the Bole neighborhood alone and with my wife during the day. I was offered shoeshines, sex (prostitution is apparently legal though I have not independently verified this), asked for money, etc., but I never once felt threatened. There are armed guards at various locations.

What To Do in Addis?

  1. Holy Trinity Cathedral: We visited with Go Addis Tours. I would recommend a guide because we learned so much about the Ethiopian Orthodox religion from our guide who was EO. Everything about the church is symbolic of something. An EO church always faces east so that the first light shines on the Ark of the Covenant (replica, the original is in the church in Axum). Women enter on the north and men on the south, the east entrance is for the priest. The EO church is in no way as ornate as the Roman Catholic churches, but everything about it was interesting.

  2. Mount Entoto: The national park offers stunning views, zip lining, dining, art and nature.

  3. The National Museum to see Lucy, our oldest bipedal ancestor. She was discovered in the Rift Valley and named for a Beatles song. Addis is building a fabulous new science museum and I am not sure if she will move there. Her current location is a little run down.

  4. The Merkato: Large and chaotic, the largest open air market in East Africa. You can buy anything there and probably be pickpocketed and many other things.

  5. Eat and walk: The best Ethiopian food in the world is in Ethiopia. The city seems pretty safe with a few precautions. There are a few western options, but why bother. The EO religion does not eat the cloven hoofed animals, so you won’t fine pork anywhere.

Harar

Harar is a Muslim, walled city in the east of the country near the border with Somaliland. This area is safe, which might tell you something that the closer you get to Somalia, the safer it becomes. Being a Muslim city in a majority Christian country sets it apart from everywhere else. To get there, we took a short flight from Addis to Dire Dwara then a van to Harar. We toured a rail museum before heading to Harar. The rail museum was also a functioning train station and rail yard. most of the equipment was 100 years old and French. Our guide seemed to be something of a Francophile and spoke seven language. For our tour, she chose to conducti it in French. I asked questions in English and she responded in French. We both pretended to understand one another. It was a beautiful friendship.

The drive to Harar takes about 1.5 hours and goes through stunning scenery featuring an arid mountain landscape. We saw baboons walking along the side of the road, terraced farm fields and many Ethiopian dwellings, people and livestock. The largest cash crop, in fact the crop that is crowding out everything else including coffee is khat (one of several spellings). Khat is a drug with amphetamine and possibly hallucinatory effects. I am told the compounds are similar to those found in coca. It is everywhere. You will drive through the largest Khat market in the world where people are carrying huge bundles of it around. I bought a bag to try. It had a pretty limited effect as I was told repeated use increases the high. Having seen it in use, it does appear to be addictive (conjecture), and prolonged use may rot ones teeth (dental care here is suspect, so this also is not proven). Having said that, I did see many people curled up on the road side with a big bag of khat which to me says nothing good.

Harar is said to be the fourth most holy city in Islam (not sure why or who ranks city for Islam, Price-Waterhouse?) It has 82 mosques within the walled city, the highest concentration in the world. Many of these are small and do not include a women’s section (the EO faith is similar to Islam in that it has separate entries based on sex and adheres to a food code). Within the walled city, there are a few museums, one devoted to Arthur Rimbaud, but it’s best just to walk around, get lost, get found. Most of the restaurants are outside the walls. There you can try the food which is Ethiopian, but also has influences of the Arabs and Indians. Harar was a trading hub for centuries and benefitted from the cross culturalism associated with that. There is still a smugglers market there that sells all manner of things that came in from Somaliland, but who knows how it got there.

The number one thing to do in Harar though is to feed the Hyenas. This is not the tourist trap that it seems. Going back centuries the city has had a Hyena festival (it sounds to me this is a worship going to an Animist past). In the festival, porridge is offered to the lead hyena and if he eats it, good things happen and if he doesn’t bad things happen — kind of a high stakes Groundhog Day. Anyway, that is the origin. For more than 50 years one family feeds the hyenas every night outside the city walls, butchers give meat scraps, and anyone can join in. My wife and I both fed them (me with a stick in my mouth). You probably never knew that you wanted to feed hyena until you’re there, then you realize that you do.

Lalibela

It’s almost not worth discussing because I cannot do it justice. You just have to see it. If you have a bucket list, this is on it. If it’s not on your list, your list is not complete. But first a word on safety: For a while the Home Office showed Lalibela in the red zone. At this point, there were no TPLF nearby, there were a number of guys walking around with assault rifles, but no more than you would see at a Hobby Lobby during the Christmas season. There is no electricity because electricity comes from a TPLF controlled area. The economy is hurting here as it relies heavily on tourism and there are almost no tourists, which in a way makes it a perfect time to visit. However, everyone must make their own assessment of a tolerable level of risk. For us, we were glad we went.

Lalibela is a complex of 11 rock-hewn churches carved into the mountain. It is said that King Lalibela worked days for 23 years and angels worked at night to help him. He built the complex after a pilgrimage to Jerusalem as the “New Jerusalem”. Each of the churches is carved from the top down because man goes into the earth when he dies. It is just incredible. I say that after visiting Petra and Machu Pichu each earlier this year.

Oh, and the landscape is stunning too.

Miscellany

Coffee was discovered in Ethiopia by a goat herder named Kaldi centuries ago. Ethiopians typically drink coffee in a coffee ceremony that involves burning frankincense, roasting beans, eating snacks, and incredibly strong coffee. This is not just for show, though there are modern coffee shops that offer a quick cup or a macchiato, these ceremonies are everywhere and Ethiopians regularly partake. It is a social gathering as is any meal in Ethiopia where it is not unusual for lone strangers to dine together.

Injera is served with every meal and is not only made from teff, but also sorghum or wheat though teff is most common. The bread is spread out over the plate and food placed on top of the injera and never on the plate. Dining is done with the hand and napkins are few and far between. Feeding each other happens.

Overall, I would recommend a trip to Ethiopia and wish to go back and see the many areas we missed: Gonder, Axum, the Rift Valley, Danakill, to name a few. It is inexpensive as the largest bill in circulation is the 200 Birr note (about $4) and as a cash economy, a large wad of bills is needed. As Africa’s only nation that was not colonized, it’s culture is rich and deep. I doubt there is any place like it on earth.